PUERTO VIEJO (DE TALAMANCA), COSTA RICA
Puerto Viejo is a lively beach town on the Caribbean coast that I find fascinating for two reasons. The first reason is its unique cultural identity. The town center is full of creole food stands and reggae music. You will find ex-pats, Costa Rican locals, and backpackers laughing, dancing, and living life to its fullest in unison; it’s incredible! The second reason is its tropical, natural beauty. The surrounding habitats are jam-packed with flora and fauna that will blow your mind! Don’t make the mistake of leaving Puerto Viejo off your itinerary!
Attractions:
Cahuita National Park: This national park is 16km (10 miles) from Puerto Viejo and is free to enter; donations are encouraged. You can easily spend a whole day here enjoying coral reefs, Capuchin monkeys, beaches, sloths, and hiking trails! In order to get here by public bus, take the bus heading towards Limón (leaves Puerto Viejo daily at 5:30am, 7:30am, 8:30am, 10:30am, 12:30pm, 2:30pm, 4:30pm, and 6:30pm). The 30-minute bus ride costs $2. You can also take a $15-$20 taxi.
Relax on the Beach: There is no shortage of Caribbean coastline in this lovely Costa Rican town! The most popular beaches are Playa Negra, Playa Cocles, and Playa Punta Uva:
Playa Negra is less than 2km (1 mile) north of Puerto Viejo and, hence the name, is a black-sand beach. It’s less than 20 minutes walking from town.
Playa Cocles is 4km (2.5 miles) south of Puerto Viejo. This beach is a popular surfing spot and is reachable via bicycle (rentals are less than $10/day), public bus, or tuk-tuk/taxi. The bus you need to take will be heading towards Manzanillo (leaves Puerto Viejo daily at 6:30am, 7:45am, 9:45am, 11:45am, 1:45pm, 4:45pm, 6:45pm, and 7:45pm). If you get off at Playa Cocles, the bus ride is 10 minutes and costs $1. A 10-minute tuk-tuk ride costs $4-$6.
Playa Punta Uva is located in Punta Uva, just 8.5km (5 miles) from Puerto Viejo. If you are traveling towards Playa Cocles, continue on the same road and you’ll find it! Again, you can take a bicycle, bus, or tuk-tuk/taxi to get here. See information for the bus above; make sure you get off at Punta Uva (should be a 20-minute bus ride and cost $2). A 20-minute tuk-tuk ride costs $10-$12.
Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge: This refuge, located in a humid tropical rainforest, is home to some of the most unique wildlife in the entire world. From crocodiles to tapirs, dolphins to eagles, and turtles to toucans, this beautiful habitat is something you cannot leave Puerto Viejo without visiting! It is a 30-minute bus ride from Puerto Viejo (see below for bus information) and costs $2. The park itself does not have an entrance fee.
Jaguar Rescue Center: This rescue center is home to many different animals such as peccaries, toucans, jaguars, sloths, and snakes! The center is dedicated to rehabilitating mistreated and/or injured animals before reintroducing them into their natural habitats. 90-minute tours ($22) are available Monday-Saturday at 9:30am and 11:30am. You can take the local bus mentioned above (towards Manzanillo) to get here. Get off at “Villas del Caribe”; the ride is 15 minutes and costs $2.
Johnny’s Place: The spot for dancing and drinks... Nuff said!
Other attractions to consider include: Tortuguero National Park, Chocolate Tour, Bri Bri Waterfalls, and Rio Pacuare White Water Rafting.
Accommodation:
Rocking J’s: If this isn’t my favorite Central American hostel, it’s at least top three! The location is unbeatable (very close to town, on the beach, and 15 minutes walking from the bus station), the common area is always poppin’, and the staff members are super friendly! You can camp, stay in cabins, or sleep in dorms - you can even rent a hammock by the night if you prefer. This place is a blast!
Transportation:
Puerto Viejo’s main bus station is Autotransportes Mepe Bus Stop and where the bus to San José departs from. It is also where the public buses above depart from to get to the beaches, national park, wildlife refuge, etc. If you choose to travel via shuttle bus, those will pick you up from your hostel/hotel
Bocas del Toro, Panama is 4 hours by shuttle bus from Puerto Viejo and costs $34.
At Sixaola when crossing the border of Costa Rica into Panama, there are a lot of restrictions. See my Panama page for more information on what you need to have prepared to cross; they are strict!
San José is 4.5 hours by bus from Puerto Viejo and costs $11; buses depart daily at 4:50am, 7:30am, 9:00am, 11:00am, 1:00pm, and 4:00pm via Transportes Mepe. You will be dropped off at Terminal de Autobus Atlántico Norte in SJ.
The shuttle bus ride is 5 hours and costs $55.
The flight from Limón to San José is 45 minutes and costs $75-$125.
Jacó is 7-8 hours by bus from Puerto Viejo (indirect; via San José) and costs $16. The first bus from Puerto Viejo to San José is 4.5 hours and costs $11 (see bus times above). Upon arriving at Terminal de Autobus Atlántico Norte in SJ, walk 5 minutes to Terminal 7-10. The bus ride from here to Jacó is 2 hours and costs $5; buses leave every two hours from 11:00am-7:00pm.
The shuttle ride is 7 hours and costs $89.
Manuel Antonio is 8-9 hours by bus from Puerto Viejo (indirect; via San José) and costs $20. The first bus from Puerto Viejo to San José is 4.5 hours and costs $11 (see bus times above). Upon arriving at Terminal de Autobus Atlántico Norte in SJ, walk 30 minutes to the Tracopa Terminal (or take a 15-minute taxi for $10). The bus ride from here to Manuel Antonio is 3.5 hours and cost $9; buses leave at 10:30am, 2:30pm, and 4:45pm.
The shuttle ride is 8 hours and costs $99.
La Fortuna is 9-10 hours by bus from Puerto Viejo (indirect; via San José) and costs $16. The first bus from Puerto Viejo to San José is 4.5 hours and costs $11 (see bus times above). Upon arriving at Terminal de Autobus Atlántico Norte in SJ, walk 5 minutes to Terminal 7-10. The bus ride from here to La Fortuna is 4 hours and costs $5; buses run every 20-50 minutes (or by demand from 5:30am-5:45pm).
The shuttle ride is 6 hours and costs $65.
Monteverde is 9-10 hours by bus from Puerto Viejo (indirect; via San José) and costs $17. The first bus from Puerto Viejo to San José is 4.5 hours and costs $11 (see bus times above). Upon arriving at Terminal de Autobus Atlántico Norte in SJ, walk 5 minutes to Terminal 7-10. The bus ride from here to Monteverde is 4.5 hours and costs $6; the last bus leaves at 2:30pm.
The shuttle ride is 8 hours and costs $99.
The closest airport to Puerto Viejo is Limón International Airport (LIO). LIO is located 55km (34 miles) from town and is accessible via public bus, shuttle bus, or taxi.
Public Bus: The ride is 1 hour and costs $3.50. The only problem is there is not necessarily a bus stop. In order to catch a bus, you will have to flag one down. MEPE buses drive by the airport hourly; wave one down heading to Puerto Viejo or Manzanillo. If you have questions, you can ask someone at the airport (just make sure they are not a taxi driver).
Shuttle Bus: The ride is 1 hour and costs $22. Shuttles leave three times daily at 7:20am, 12:40pm, and 3:10pm.
Taxi: The ride is 1 hour and costs $70-$85 depending on the time of day.
